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If you’ve got a miter saw, compound miter saw, or a sliding compound miter saw, you may have experience with trying to cut quickly, using a laser as a guide, and the cut being off a little bit.
This is a common problem and means you need to make an adjustment on your laser.
The fact is, if the laser is not adjusted perfectly, it may as well be left off completely. It’s kind of like what Ricky Bobby’s daddy said, if you ain’t first, your last. If the light doesn’t work perfectly, that doesn’t mean it only kind of works, that means it’s completely useless!
So I’m going to give you a few tips on how to make adjustments and get your laser set up quickly and accurately.
First off, you need to understand that most miter saws’ lasers are designed so the line is not cut off. In other words, the laser is just to the left of the kerf, just touching the cut.
This actually makes it really easy to set up quickly and use accurately. You just have to draw your cut line, then line that up with the right edge of the laser beam, and that will put your mark on the left edge of the blade.
Just keep in mind doing it this way means the waste of the board must be to the right of your mark.
Different saws required different tools for adjustment. But let’s assume you have that figured out and you have the proper tools in hand.
And just a reminder – Always wear your safety glasses when using your power tools! So if you don’t have them on already, put them on right now! You only have 2 eyes in this life, they are precious and you should take care of them.
Now you want to take a scrap board, preferably one that is flat and has a nice straight edge you can put against the fence.
Now use the miter saws hold-down clamp to clamp that board in place, leaving plenty board on either side of the blade.
If you do not have a built-in hold-down clamp, you can either use a quick-clamp to hold the piece to the cut bed.
Another option, which I would strongly suggest if you don’t already have one, is to build a miter saw workbench. This will allow you to set up custom jigs, gauges, extended fences, custom clamp-downs, and anything else you may need for making great miter cuts.
For more on this, check out How To Build A Miter Saw Table.
Now with the piece clamped in place, you want to start the saw and make a slight cut into the board. No need to cut all the way through.
Now return the blade to the upright position and unplug the saw. Safety first!
With the slight cut made, you can now see the exact cut line the saw blade makes for every cut.
So without letting the board move, adjust your laser so it just touches the left side of that cut.
If you saw’s laser beam travels left or right as you lower the blade, that’s ok – don’t throw it out just yet!. You just need to adjust it so it’s accurate with the blade fully upright. Then in use, line up the cut with the blade fully upright and then ignore the light as you lower the blade to make the cut. We’ve all had to work with defective or cheap tools and instruments. The best of us learn how to use these tools, not make excuses as to why we can’t.
And that’s it! Make sure the laser adjustment is tightened back up snug, and go ahead and make a few test cuts with the board you already have sitting there. Just make your mark, line it up with the laser beam, and cut.
After the cut, inspect the board and make sure the blade didn’t cut off too much or too little. If it did, go ahead and make another slight adjustment to fine-tune it.
This may make the process a bit longer, but remember, once it’s set up, you’ll save time with all future cuts. So it’s worth spending a little extra time on right now to get it perfect!
. 704 Answers SOURCE: Look at the pivot point on the rear of the miter saw for the push/pull locking pin. The pin is there so you can lock the saw in the down position for easier carrying. To unlock the saw, simply pull the locking pin out (Makita calls this the 'stopper pin'). Then you can use the saw and easily raise and lower it for cutting. 1971 beetle owners manual.
As you might find it helpful to have, I have included a link from the Makita web site for a free copy of the owners manual that you can print or save for future use and reference. It has some handy info on use and care of your saw. Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards! Posted on Sep 20, 2009.
Unplug the saw. If the blade is moving, wait for it to stop. If the blade arm is locked into its down position, push down slightly on the blade arm to release the tension on the blade arm lock pin. Pull out the lock pin to release the blade arm and allow it to move upward. 2 Rotate the lower blade guard upward and expose the Phillips-head screw that holds the blade bolt cover in place.
Loosen the screw and rotate the blade bolt cover up and out of the way to expose the hex-head blade bolt. 3 Push the spindle lock button in and rotate the blade bolt until the spindle lock engages fully, stopping the ability of the blade bolt to rotate. 4 Loosen the blade bolt using a 10-millimeter/12-millimeter combination wrench. The blade bolt is lefthand threaded, which is the reverse of conventional threading. Turn the bolt clockwise to loosen and remove it. Note the placement of the outer washer and remove it as well.
5 Place a drop of machine oil on the inner blade bolt washer. Do not remove the inner washer. If it is missing, replace it before replacing the blade. 6 Slide the replacement saw blade up past the lower blade guard and onto the blade spindle. The blade teeth should point downward at the front of the saw. Saw blades often have rotation arrows that can help you double-check that the saw is installed to rotate the correct direction. 7 Press the spindle lock button in to lock the spindle and reinstall the blade bolt.
The blade bolt will tighten in a counterclockwise direction. Replace the blade bolt cover and install the blade bolt cover screw. 8 Position a combination square to check that the blade is square to the saw fence and saw table. If the blade is not square, refer to the procedures in the manual for squaring the blade to the fence and table. Things You Will Need. 10-millimeter/12-millimeter combination wrench.
SOURCE: Unable to lift the saw blade Makita Miter Saw Look at the pivot point on the rear of the miter saw for the push/pull locking pin. The pin is there so you can lock the saw. DW705 12' miter saw.approx. Dust bag,blade wrench, manual. Includes work. Genuine Craftsman 315212110 10' Compound Miter Saw parts Aluminium. This 8-1/4 in. Compound Miter Saw with Laser Guide is ideal for Pro's and Serious DIYers who expect the very best in their tools. With a 10-Amp motor that is capable of producing 5,000 RPMs, this tool can handle any job you throw at it.
5-millimeter hex key. Combination square.
Phillips screwdriver. Machine oil Tip. Overtightening bolts and screws can result in cross-threading. Cross-threading damage compromises the integrity of bolts and screws and can be a difficult error to correct. Warning.
Do not attempt to install a blade that is too thick in the saw. If the blade washer cannot engage the flats on the spindle, the blade is too thick for the saw. Jun 12, 2018. Be sure the saw is switched off and unplugged. Use the Makita socket wrench on the side of the saw base if you still have it. If not make sure you use a socket or wrench that fits the bolts properly so you get them off and back on without damaging them.
Lock the handle in the up position with the stopper pin. Loosen the hex bolt holding the center cover in place, this will let you raise the guard and center cover so you can get at the blade bolt. There is a button on the back side of the blade guard that locks the spindle. Push and hold the button in and turn the blade until it locks in place. Using the socket wrench, turn the blade bolt clockwise or in the same direction the blade turns while cutting to remove it, the outer flange and blade. Put the new blade on (check that the direction of the arrow on the blade is the same as on the guard), the outer flange and blade bolt.
Use the spindle lock to get the bolt on tight. Return the center cover to it's original position and tighten it's hex bolt. Turn the blade by hand to make sure the spindle lock released then pull the stopper pin and make sure the blade guard works properly. Feb 03, 2012. First unplug the tool, raise the head and loosen the bolt that holds the lower guard in place. DO NOT disassemble the lower guard, pull it down and it will move out of the way somewhat. Next there is a spindle lock that you push in rotate the blade until locked and hold it while removing the hex bolt, which should be left hand thread, I would use a pair of gloves when holding the blade just for safety.
Remove the outer flange and spacer (if needed) reassemble in the opposite order and before trying rotate the new blade by hand to make sure turns freely. Let me know if you need more assistance. Feb 16, 2011. Removing the Blade 1. Unplug the saw. Raise the arm to the upper position and raise the lower guard as far as possible. Loosen, but do not remove guard bracket screw until the bracket can be raised far enough to access the blade screw.
Lower guard will remain raised due to the position of the guard bracket screw. Depress the spindle lock button (Fig. 3) while carefully rotating the saw blade by hand until the lock engages 5. Keeping the button depressed, use the other hand and the wrench provided to loosen the blade screw. (Turn clockwise, left-hand threads.) 6. Remove the blade screw, outer blade clamp, and blade.
The inner blade clamp may be left on the spindle. Installing a Blade 1. Unplug the saw. With the arm raised, the lower guard held open and the guard bracket, place the blade on the spindle against the inner blade clamp with the teeth at the bottom of the blade pointing toward the back of the saw. Assemble the outer blade clamp onto the spindle. Install the blade screw and, engaging the spindle lock, tighten the screw firmly with wrench provided.
(Turn counterclockwise, left-hand threads.) 5. Return the guard bracket to its original position and firmly tighten the guard bracket screw to hold bracket in place. WARNING:. The guard bracket must be returned to its original position and the screw tightened before activating the saw. Failure to do so may allow the guard to contact the spinning saw blade resulting in damage to the saw and severe personal injury you can download a manual at: Jul 20, 2010.
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